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Shower Pans And Hot Mopping

Is your shower stall leaking to the room underneath? Forget about caulking, applying sealant to the grout or even re-grouting, the problem is in your shower pan. We are able to resolve the problem in a couple of days. We remove some rolls of tile, demolish all the way to the sub-floor, re-apply a new shower pan, rebuild all the layers and lay new tiles. This is easy as pie.


We have installed so many shower pans that we lost count.


Here you will find schematics for some of the techniques we use. Feel free to call us if you need any work.


Re-grout and Grout Replacement

When setting the Shower Pan Drain, be sure to set the “flat area” of the bottom half directly on the sub-floor surface.


“Blocking” around your shower stall is required to give the Shower Pan a solid surface to sit against, and also protect it from careless tradesmen who might otherwise knock a hammer or other instrument through the Hot-Mop membrane.


“Blocking” is best done with 2″x10″ or 2″x12″ boards cut to fit between the studs.


The “Curb”, also called the Damn, is the area that will serve as the entrance to your shower stall. “Curbs” are usually built by stacking either three or four 2″x4″s on top of each other.

The minimum height requirement for a curb is 4 1/2″, although some people prefer the look of a higher curb and may build it 6″ or even 7 1/2″ tall.